Method of finishing heels.



W. HUBBARD.

METHOD OF FINISHING HEELS.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 11. 1916.

1,273,062; 7 Patented July 16, 1918;

ZSHEETS-SHEET I W. HUBBARD.

METHOD OF FINISHING HEELS.

APPLICATION FILED ocT. I7, 1916.

Patented July 16, 1918.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

:WILLIAM HUBBARD, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNEASSIGNMENTS;

TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, PATERSON, NEWJERSEY, A COR-PORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

' METHOD OF FINISHING HEELS.

' Patented July 16, 1918.

. Application filerl 'flctober 17, 1916. Serial No. 126,198.

' citizen of the United States, residing at Rochester, in the county ofMonroe and State of New York, have invented certain Improvements inMethods of Finishing Heels, of which thefollowing description, inconnection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, likereference characters on the drawings indicating likeparts in theseveralfigures.

' This invention relates to a method of producing a heel having anornamental stripe of contrasting color. Y

A stripe of this sort should possess a high degree of brilliancy inorder to produce the desired ornamental effect; and for the same reasonits boundary lines should be very straight and even and clearly markedso that the stripe shall stand out clearly in sharp contrast to the bodyof the heel. A stripe painted over the colored and polished heel doesnot have the desired brilliancy nor is the result much improved by firstremoving a strip of the coloring matter of the heel and then painting astripe on the denuded area,since the material with which the heel iscolored permeates the margins of the leather or leatherboard'lifts sothat in either case the desiredbrilliancy of the stripe and consequentsharp contrast between its color and that of the body of the heel is notsecured. Moreover to produce by a painting operation a narrow, welldefined stripe, the brilliancy of which is permanent is difiicult.

According to the method of the present invention, a thin lift ofaluminum or other colored material, impermeable by the ink or stainwhich is used to color the heel, inserted between the permeable leatheror leather board lifts which are used to make up the body ofthe heel.gThe heel with-the impermeable lift incorporated in it is colored in theusualjmanner by having appliet to its surface a coating more or lessopaque according to whether a black or. a russet heelis to be produced,after which the coloring material is cleaned from the edge of theimpermeable lift leaving said edge as brilliant as before the coloringmaterial was applied. By making use in this manner of a lift which isnot permeable by the coloring material a brilliant, clearly definedstripe, which sharply contrasts with the remainder of the-surface of theheel, is readily'produced. v

Referring to the accompanying draw- 1ngs,' I

Figure 1 isan elevation of an unfinished l efel having an impermeableornamental Fig.2 is an elevation of the heel ai'ter it has been coloredand waxed;

Fig. 3 is an elevation .ofthe finished heel showlng theexposed edge ofthe ornamental lift;

.Fig. 4 is a perspective of a portion of a I heel burnishing machinefitted with mechanism for. cleaning the edge of the ornamental lift,and. Y

Fig. 5 is a perspective showing a heel in process of having the edge ofthe ornamentallift cleaned. V

- Referring-now more particularly to Figs. 1,2 and 3, there is shown aLouis heel made up: of the usual leather or other lifts 7, an ornamentallift 9 which may beof celluloid aluminum or other impermeable material,

and the usual toplift 11. To this heel is applied either manually or bythe use of a machine, a coloring matter such as black.- ing. The shoe isthen taken to a heel burnishing machine where a coat of wax is appliedand the coating smoothed and burnished. 'If the heel is to be finishedin russet, the separate step of blacking or applying coloring matter tothe heel is commonly omitted, such coloring matter being incorporated inthe'wax and applied by theburnishing machine. In either event, the heel,after being colored and burnished, presents the appearance shown in Fig.2, the edge of the ornamental lift being obscured by the'coating offinishing material.

other finishing from the edge The blacking and wax or material are thencleaned of the ornamental lift to shown In Fig. 3.

.1 In Flg. 4 there is shown a portion of a heel burnishing machine whichhas beeir fitted with means for cleaning the edge of the ornamentallift.

This machine is in general of a well'known form and will not bedescribed in detail. It is provided with the usual iron 13 the functionof which is to apply to the heel a coating of hot wax, with a smoothroll 15 to which the heel is next presented, and with a polishing brushgive the effect the bolt from turning.

17 by which the wax is brushed in and polished.

Fast to the end of the rotary shaft 19 ornamental lift, this edgecomprising small teeth which rapidly remove the coloring matter and wax.'In order" to assist in the presentation of the heel to the cleaningwheel 21 a tread-rest 23 in the form of a plate is fastened-at one endto ascrew bolt 25, said bolt passing through earson a bracket 27' andhaving at its inner end a square head which bears against a fiat surfaceon the bracket and thereby prevents A thumb nut 28 provides means formoving the bolt, and with it the tread-rest, in and out. The bracket 27is mounted on a pin 29 having at its outer end an eye, through whichpasses the stem of a bolt 30 which is thread ed into said bracket, thebracket thus being angularly adjustable about the axis of the bolt 30.The pin is adjustably held in a socket in one end of a supporting member31, the other end of which is .adjustably fastened to one end of an arm33 by a screw, the head or handle of which is indicated at 35. The hubat the end of the arm 33is split and is adjustably fastened to astationary rod 37 by a pinch-screw 39. The tread-rest maythus beadjusted in a path parallel to the'axis of the bolt 25, angularly aboutthe axis of the bolt 30, in a path parallel to the axis of the pin 29,and angularly about either the axis of the screw 35 or that i of therod-37. By these adjustments it is possible to provide for heels ofdifferent shapes and for top lifts of. different thickness. 7

The method of the invention is carried out as follows: The heel is,first inked and blacked if the finished heel is to be given a blackfinish. It is then presented tothe iron 13 and swung around until acoating of wax is applied to the'whole lateral'surface thereof. Thewaxed heel'is then similarly presented to the smoothing roll 15 andthereafter to the brush 17. At this stage the lateral surface of theheel is covered with an opaque and burnished coat which obscures theedge of the ornamental lift. The

heel is then presentedto the cleaning wheel 21 in 'the manner shown inFig; 5 and swung around so asto remove the coloring Copies 0! thispatent may be obtained for matter and wax from the edge of the liftprogressively beginning at a point in the junction of the lateralsurface with the breast at one side of the heelpand ending with asimilar point at the other sideo'f the heel. This ordinarily completesthe treat-- ment of the heel, but in some cases it is de sirable to rubthe cleaned edge of the lift and the adjacent coat of finishing materialto remove the. dust orfchips and to polish the edge of the lift. Whenthis further step is desirable, the heel is 1 .resen-ted-'aga-in-to theroll 15 or brush 17 or to both. i

The machine which has beenldescribed above is not claimed herein butforms the subject-matter of a divisional application Serial No. 222,131,filed March 13,1918, and the heel having the lift of impermeablematerial forms the subject-matter of a copending application Serial No.111,7 39, filed July 27,1916; 2 i

Having thus described my invention,

what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the UnitedStates is? 1. The method of producing a heel having an ornamental stripewhich comprises assembling with a plurality of lifts of permeablematerial a lift of impermeable material, applying to the lateral surfaceofthe heel so made up a coloring material which permeates the edges of"the permeable lifts but merely coats the edge oft-he impermeable lift,and then removing the coloring matter from the edge of the impermeable.

breast of the heel at one side of theheel and continuing progressivelyaround said lateral surface to a similar pointat the other side of theheel, and at the same time limiting the removing action to the areaprescribed by the boundaries of the edge of the metal lift. a

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

WILLI M HUBBARD.

five cents each, by addressing-the Commissioner or Patents, Washington,D. G. i

